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After two more hours of polishing I think not much has changed
Yet the tool works perfectly, I make the hot pressing before each session, I do the micro channeling surface, the displacement resistance is homogeneous in every direction and I'm maniacally careful not to overflow or exceed with the races. The laser test shows that the surface is not shiny and ok, but I thought I could see, at least, some progress on Ronchi
Tonight I opened the tool channels then I dipped in hot water for about ten minutes and, once you softened the right, I put on weight mirror and to take the form as it should. I later polished hour and a half with mirror above and past 1/3 being careful not to overdo it and not to spill over. From Ronchi you would say that is the right direction, the center lines begin to be increasingly straight then continue so until see also align the outer part.
Solidworks is just ideal for mechanical design, prototyping, etc… For example you can design parts simulating an assembly to see how they work together, then save stl in every single part, the amounts in the printer software (in my case Simplify 3d) which processes the printing procedure and controls the machine. Solidworks is very professional and has therefore a lot of useful features.
The hexagonal weave is visible within the pieces because this filament is semi-transparent. It uses the fill honeycomb in order to save material and speed up printing while maintaining an excellent structural level, print pieces so full would be meaningless.
For the mirror I will do as you suggest. Most likely I worked with a pitch not perfectly adapted, I'll try to make a hot-pressed to have a good starting point.
Be patient, but with the phone in hand and a steering wheel setup is the maximum I could do… in the meantime I try to optimize everything, you can infer something from this? I think in line with what we had already said, almost spherical center (with a central upward) e 2/5 even more external sottocorretti. I think that will serve even several hours of polishing to get to the ball.
Tester designed and printed with Solidworks 3D printer. I used the magnets in order to change the flight test plate, one made for a Ronchi for Foucault. If you have design tips, improvements or if you notice errors come forward
Problem solved momentarily, I received this morning the two networks from the USA!
The break is over, he is recovering
Thanks GiM, that's just a small program useful. However I can not get a visible pdf.
Within the software I see the reticle perfectly, when I go to export to pdf when I go to open it I see a black square, no lines, no matter how you magnify, I see always black. I do the same thing if I try to draw them into solidworks. I can not understand what the problem is The ones I have available more frequently reported:
Max Printing Resolution
Up to 1200 x 600 dpi
They can be enough? In the event went well, How could I prepare properly file? Drawing lines simply giving for example the size of spaces and lines equal to 0.1mm (for the 5 lp/mm) and mold the life-size file?Well Julius, let's hope so… However I thought they needed very precise laser printers, not the office classics. I have as many of those as I want. I will try to make a test sheet while waiting for them to arrive.
Cabbage, They haven't sent me any emails like that, in addition to those of the order that would have been processed as soon as possible… Panic, I don't want them to send or refund, mostly because I'm without.
Interesting… Can you tell me an overall draw, from – until +, sufficient to test a good range of mirrors and clearly valid for what I'm working on
?
I would like to understand which comparator or micrometer to use on the test bench (although for convenience I would prefer a digital comparator).
I have seen a digital comparator with excursion 24 hmm at a good price, they might be enough +12 e -12 quickly?Ok, but what is still not clear to me is whether TOT also needs to be worked… so far for polishing I have worked only and exclusively with the mirror above. Working only with the mirror above, however, a complete polishing of the entire surface is obtained? I've read conflicting reviews.
Mmm… it may be that in the first hours of polishing I made the rosin adapt too little with the consequence that the center of the mirror was in more contact than the periphery. For a couple of hours now, however, I have let the tool adapt for longer and in fact I have noticed a better distribution of friction.
Assuming this is the cause, continuing to work with a well-adapted tool should return to its place?
Another suspect could perhaps be too high an ambient temperature? I tried never to work above 26° (for example today it went up to 28.5° and therefore I didn't work) but, although the pitch is given for 26° its optimal range seems to vary from 18 to 26° according to the supplier. What do I do? However, I'm still far from having a polished mirror, so I think now I should focus more on this aspect rather than fixating on forms that are not yet definitive.
I'm planning to build a decent Foucault as well as waiting for an acceptable Ronchi lattice.
Meanwhile , given the point of the situation made at present, what would you recommend?
I put the tool on top with 1 / 3D strokes, continuing the polishing, strengthening the work on the outermost part or continuing to mirror above, hoping that the polishing is uniform in any case and that the sphere is also generated on the outermost part?
So by eye I would like to say to put the tool on with slightly generous 1 / 3D strokes, work a couple of hours and then return to the MOT.Ok, so from what you say I am in a situation of undercorrection, that is, they are more towards the elliptical shape in the outermost part (hence with K positive) , as the center gets closer to the sphere (K tending to 0).
Now I also have to bring the external part to take on the shape of the circumference after which I will be able to figure the parabola and consequently obtain a K = -1 for the whole surface going to work more the central area with the W passes, quite right?And, I'm very careful not to overflow just to avoid flaring, as well as too short passes that would tend to create a central depression, as well as too long with the risk of falling back. I marked the back of the mirror to better manage the pass by 1/3 trying to stay on axis as much as possible, helping me with torso movements rather than arms (so I get tired even less).
From what you theoretically say, if you invert the mirror and the tool or in any case get to work the edge better, the lines should tend to straighten even towards the outside., or in any case even if not completely enough to have a good point of view to figure the desired parable.
It will take a few more hours… I would estimate at a guess other 6/8 hours at least.
